<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<itemContainer xmlns="http://omeka.org/schemas/omeka-xml/v5" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xsi:schemaLocation="http://omeka.org/schemas/omeka-xml/v5 http://omeka.org/schemas/omeka-xml/v5/omeka-xml-5-0.xsd" uri="https://conwayhallcollections.omeka.net/items/browse?advanced%5B0%5D%5Belement_id%5D=39&amp;advanced%5B0%5D%5Btype%5D=is+exactly&amp;advanced%5B0%5D%5Bterms%5D=Musters%2C+George+Chaworth&amp;output=omeka-xml" accessDate="2026-07-11T20:23:22-04:00">
  <miscellaneousContainer>
    <pagination>
      <pageNumber>1</pageNumber>
      <perPage>10</perPage>
      <totalResults>1</totalResults>
    </pagination>
  </miscellaneousContainer>
  <item itemId="1385" public="1" featured="0">
    <fileContainer>
      <file fileId="1612">
        <src>https://d1y502jg6fpugt.cloudfront.net/25778/archive/files/831d8f0dd36fe757a195fb6e8214b232.pdf?Expires=1784764800&amp;Signature=X9ZUfhPEvLNJ-sCwIehX54mt7pNgiFOyQ0hBGJOYxTXroV%7ERXbXMBE-jLVYRKJv5-mbrHTK2HMQFdJhDNEFmPfHQRzBkTmHSMlE%7EZ5rgZQqsl9lttd8VvgIveHCcFcZKPa6y3CIzdyAJbyjesIAYoSdyk%7Ef3VO4LrxhYOd3v1AS0e7zsE8DT4eDiMLh1vV%7EOgFs636ynBv3GfSbjPql3WZGuICD0y4-Lsu9GhUewZjgsx6sbljAe0b9C9DwqQn5onqs3VzQSvQ2zIpfgQFmHIDnfBTu2IzeEDskrplIzvQ14bc9WIAJzc1%7EzDT%7EjGqDBAhojfANhV40tGBqT65VBVA__&amp;Key-Pair-Id=K6UGZS9ZTDSZM</src>
        <authentication>67cca9f0b488cd5c3c9fecffb44162db</authentication>
        <elementSetContainer>
          <elementSet elementSetId="5">
            <name>PDF Text</name>
            <description/>
            <elementContainer>
              <element elementId="53">
                <name>Text</name>
                <description/>
                <elementTextContainer>
                  <elementText elementTextId="26010">
                    <text>3&lt;?o

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

[Apr.

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.
BY GEORGE CHAWORTH MUSTERS.
II.

HE hills on the northern side of the

fixed to form a temporary toldo—sing­

valley of
Chico
women joined with the
Tand rugged,the Rio abruptlyare bare ing, whilst theincantations andinhowlings.
rising
out of irregmost dismal
­

ular forms, while the southern heights
are lower, and present more of the steep
declivities known as barrancas, inter­
rupted at intervals by high, rugged hills
of basalt, often assuming the appearance
of ruined castles, closing in at the bends
of the winding river. To one of these—
a remarkable hill under which we were
encamped on August 23, about one hun­
dred and twenty miles from Santa Cruz—
I gave the name of Sierra Ventana, from
a window-like opening through its peak :
the Indians called it Mowaish. In many
places the bases of these hills are form­
ed entirely of a description of lava; and
one of the Chilians informed me that
whilst passing over a ridge he had ob­
served several large masses of pure iron:
this, however, I was inclined to disbe­
lieve, as, although farther up the coun­
try iron-ore exists in large quantities, I
only observed in this part a species of
ore similar to that common at Drobak
in Norway.
During the expedition up the Rio Chico
I had an opportunity of witnessing the
ceremonies with which the attainment
of the age of puberty of one of the girls
was celebrated according to custom.
Early in the morning the father of the
child informed the cacique of the event:
the cacique thereupon officially commu­
nicated the intelligence to the acting
doctor or medicine-man, and a consider­
able shouting was set up, while the doc­
tor adorned himself with white paint and
was bled in the forehead and arms with
a sharp bodkin. The women immedi­
ately set to work to sew a number of
mandils together. When the patchwork
was finished, it was taken with pomp
and ceremony by a band of young men,
who marched round the poles—already

After marching round several times, the
covering was drawn over the poles, and
lances were stuck in front adorned with
bells, streamers and brass plates that
shook and rattled in the breeze, the
whole thing when erected presenting a
very gay appearance (its Indian name
literally meaning “The pretty house ”).
The girl was then placed in an inner
part of the tent, where nobody was ad­
mitted. After this everybody mounted,
and some were selected to bring up the
horses, out of which certain mares and
fillies were chosen and brought up in
front of the showy toldo, where they
were knocked on the head by a ball,
thus saving the blood (which was se­
cured in pots) to be cooked, being con­
sidered a great delicacy. It is a rule
amongst the Indians that any one assist­
ing to take off the hide of a slaughtered
mare is entitled to a piece of meat, but
the flesh was on this occasion distributed
pretty equally all round. Whilst the
meat was cooking, Casimiro, w7ho was
ruler of the feast, sent a message for me
to come to Crime’s toldo, where I found
him busy working at a saddle, in the
construction of which he was, by the
way, an adept. His wife had a large
iron pot bubbling on the fire, containing
some of the blood mixed with grease.
When the mess was nearly cooked, we
added a little pepper and salt and com­
menced the feast. Previous to this I
had felt a sort of repugnance to eating
horse, as perhaps most Englishmen—
except, indeed, the professed hippophagists—have ; but hunger overcame all
scruples, and I soon acquired quite a
taste for this meat. Casimiro informed
me, after the meal was concluded, that
there would be a dance in the evening.

�■Sfa.]

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

391

I looked forward with great anticipation I saw some of the women proceed to colto this “small and early,1' and. shortly I lect a considerable quantity of firewood,

which was placed outside the tent. Pres- ! outside the sacred precincts. The wo*
ently, toward dusk, a fire was made, first ! men all sat down on the grass round

�392

AT HOME WITH THE I’A TA GO MIA'VS.

[Apr.

about, but at some distance from the I except four and the musicians. The ormen, who were all seated on the grass, | chestra consisted of a drum made by

Stretching' a piece of hide over a bowl, I of the thigh-bone of a guanaco, with
also a sort of wind iastruniettt formed holes bored in it. which is placed to the

�1873.]

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

mouth and played, or with a short bow
having a horsehair string. When all
was ready, some of the old hags all the
time singing in their melodious way, the
band struck up, and four Indians, muf­
fled up in blankets so that their eyes
Only were visible, and their heads adorn­
ed with ostrich plumes, marched into
the ring and commenced pacing slowly
round the fire, keeping time to the
music. After two or three promenades
the time gradually quickened until they
went at a sort of trot; and about the
fifth round, dancing fast to the music,
they threw away their mantles, and ex­
hibited themselves adorned with white
paint daubed all over their bodies, and
each having a girdle of bells extending
from the shoulder to the hip, which
jingled in tune to their steps. The first
four consisted of the chiefs Casimiro,
Orkeke, Crime and Camillo, who, after
dancing with great action (just avoiding
stepping into the fire), and bowing their
plumed heads grotesquely on either side
to the beats of the drum, retired for a
short time to rest themselves, after which
they appeared again and danced a dif­
ferent step. When that was over, four
more appeared, and so on until every
one, including the boys, had had a fling.
Sometimes, to give greater effect, the
performers carried a bunch of rushes in
one hand. About 9 P. M., everybody
having had enough, Casimiro gave the
sign. The band stopped playing, and
all retired to bed. The dancing was not
ungraceful, but was rendered grotesque
by the absurd motions of the head. It
was strictly confined to the men, the
women being only allowed to look on.
At the beginning of November we fell
in with a party of northern Indians,
under a chief named Hinchel, on which
occasion the ceremonial of welcome was
duly observed. Both parties, fully arm­
ed, dressed in their best and mounted on
their best horses, formed into opposite
lines. The northern Indians presented
the gayest appearance, displaying flan­
nel shirts, ponchos and a great show
of silver spurs and ornamental bridles.
The chiefs then rode up and down, dress­
ing the ranks and haranguing their men,

393

who kept up a continual shouting of
“Wap, Wap, Wap.” I fell in as a full
private, though Casimiro had vainly
endeavored to induce me to act as “ Cap­
itanejo” or officer of a party. The Bue­
nos Ayrean colors were proudly display­
ed on our side, while the Northerns car­
ried a white weft, their ranks presenting
a much better drilled aspect than our
ill-disciplined forces. Messengers or
hostages were then exchanged, each side
deputing a son or brother of the chief
for that purpose ; and the new-comers
advanced, formed into columns of threes
and rode round our ranks, firing their
guns and revolvers, shouting and brand­
ishing their swords and bolas. After
galloping round at full speed two or three
times, they opened ranks and charged
out as if attacking an enemy, shouting
“Koue” at every blow or thrust. The
object of attack was supposed to be the
“ Gualichu ” or demon, and certainly the
Demon of Discord had need to be ex­
orcised. Hinchel’s party then halted
and reformed their line, while we, in our
turn, executed the same manœuvres.
Afterward the caciques advanced and
formally shook hands, making, each in
turn, long and complimentary speeches.
This was repeated several times, the
etiquette being to answer only “ Ahon ”
or Yes until the third repetition, when
all begin to talk, and formality is gradu­
ally laid aside. It was rather a surprise
to find etiquette so rigorously insisted
on, but these so-called savages are as
punctilious in observing the proper forms
as if they were Spanish courtiers.
Guanaco-hunting having proved a fail­
ure, Orkeke, to my great delight, pro­
posed a visit to the wild-cattle country.
The camp was accordingly struck, and
following more or less the valley of the
river, which flowed after one turn nearly
due east, we shortly came out into an
open plain running up between the
mountains, at the head of which we en­
camped by some tall beeches on the
bank of the stream. The whole of the
latter part of the plain traversed was
literally carpeted with strawberry plants
all in blossom, the soil being of a dark,
peaty nature. Young ostriches were now

�394

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

(Apr.

numerous, and in every hunt some were I tion to our dinner. The children had
captured and formed a welcome addi- | several alive as pets, which they used to"

let loose and then catch with miniature j Our programme was to leave all the wobolas, generally ending in killing them. I men, toldos and other encumbrances in

�1872.]

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

this spot, named “Weekel,” or Chaykash—a regular station which Hinchel’s
party had occupied a few weeks previ­
ously—and proceed into the interior in
search of cattle. The following morn­
ing at daylight horses were caught and
Saddled, and, after receiving the good
wishes of the women, who adjured us
to bring back plenty of fat beef, we
started off just as the sun was rising be­
hind the hills to the eastward. The air
was most invigorating, and we trotted
along for some distance up a slightly
irregular and sandy slope, halting after
an hour or two by the side of a deli­
ciously clear brook flowing east, where
we smoked. We had previously passed
guanaco and ostrich, but no notice was
taken of them, the Indians having larger
game in view. After passing this brook,
the head-water of the river near which
we had left the toldos, we skirted a large
basin-like plain of beautiful green pas­
ture, and after galloping for some time
entered the forest, traveling along a path
which only permitted us to proceed in
Indian file. The trees were in many
places dead—not blackened by fire, but
standing up like ghostly bleached and
bare skeletons. It is a remarkable fact
that all the forests on the eastern side
are skirted by a belt of dead trees. At
length, however, just as we came in sight
of a curiously-pointed rock which in the
distance resembled the spire of a church,
we entered the forest of live trees: the
undergrowth was composed of currant,
bay and other bushes, whilst here and
there were beds of yellow violets, and
the inevitable strawberry plants every­
where. After crossing a stream which,
flowing from the north, afterward took a
westerly course, thus proving that we
had passed the watershed, we proceeded,
under cover of a huge rock, to recon­
noitre the hunting-ground. The scenery
was beautiful: a valley, about a mile
wide, stretched directly under us; on
the southern verge a silver line marked
the easterly river, and another on the
northern the one debouching in the Pa­
cific ; whilst above, on both sides, rose
high mountains covered with vegetation
and almost impenetrable forests. On

395

the western side of the valley a solitary
bull was leisurely taking his breakfast,
and above our lookout rock a huge con­
dor lazily flapped his wings. These were
the only specimens of animal life in view.
Pursuing our way in perfect silence, as
from the first entrance into the forests
speaking had been prohibited, we fol­
lowed the leader along the narrow cattle­
path, passing here and there the remains
of a dead bull or cow that had met its
fate by the Indians’ lasso, and at length
descended to the plain. It was about
mid-day and the day was warm, so we
halted, changed horses, looked to our
girths, got lassos ready for use, and then
started on. As we were proceeding we
observed two or three animals amongst
the woods on the opposite side, but,
knowing that it would be useless to fol­
low, pursued our course up the valley.
Having crossed the western stream, we
at once entered a thicket where the path
was scarcely distinguishable from the
cover, but our leader never faltered, and
led the way through open glades alter­
nating with thick woods, on every side
of which were cattle-marks—many being
holes stamped out by the bulls—or wallowing-places. The glades soon termi­
nated in forests, which seemed to stretch
unbroken on either side. We had ex­
pected before reaching this point to find
cattle in considerable numbers, but the
warmth of the day had probably driven
them into the thickets to seek shelter.
We now commenced to ascend over a
dangerous path, encumbered here and
there with loose boulders and entangled
in dense thickets, whilst we could hear
and catch occasional glimpses of the
river foaming down a ravine on our left;
and presently arrived at the top of a
ridge where the forests became more
uniformly dense, and we could with
great difficulty pursue our way. It was
a mystery to me how Orkeke, who acted
as guide, knew where we were, as on
one occasion the slightly-marked paths
diverged in different directions, and
on another we literally found ourselves
amongst fallen trees in a forest so dense
that the light of day scarcely penetrated
its shades. Our leader, however, never

�396

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

hesitated, but led us onward in all con­
fidence. Whilst brushing along, if I
may be allowed the term, trying to keep
the leader in sight, I heard something
tapping on a tree, and, looking up, saw
close above me a most beautifully-fea­
thered red-crested woodpecker. We at
length commenced to descend, and, after
passing many channels of rivulets issu­
ing from springs, where a slip of the
horse’s foot on the wet and mossy stones
would have occasioned something worse
than broken bones, as they were situated
on the edge of a deep ravine, finally
emerged from the woods, and found our­
selves on a hill of some three hundred
feet in height, whence we looked down
On a broad plain in the form of a triangle,
bounded by the river flowing through
the ravine on the north side, and on the
southern by another coming from the
south, which two streams united in one
large river at the western apex, at a dis­
tance of about perhaps a league. Above
and around, on all sides excepting to the
west and the ravines through which the
rivers flowed, rose the unbroken wall
of the lofty mountains of the Cordillera,
many of their peaks snow-clad. No
sound was to be heard except the rush­
ing of the river in the ravine, and no
animal life to be seen except a condor
or two floating high above us in the clear
sky. The scene was sublime, and I view­
ed it in silence for some minutes, till the
pipe, being handed to me, dispelled all
nascent poetic tendencies. The Indians
remained silent and looked disgusted, as
a herd of cattle had been expected to be
viewed on the plain below. We descend­
ed to the flats and crossed the river, on
the banks of which “Paja” or pampa­
grass grew in abundance, as well as the
bamboo-like canes from which Araucanian Indians make their lance shafts,
and a plant called by the Chilians
“Talka,” the stalk of which, resembling
rhubarb, is refreshing and juicy. On
the northern edges and slope of the ra­
vine behind us towered graceful pines
sixty feet high, which, though an im­
passable barrier of rock prevented close
inspection, appeared to be a species of
Araucaria: the bark was imbricated,

[Apr.

and the stems rose bare of branches for
two-thirds of their height, like those fig­
ured by M. Gay. Many had been car­
ried down by landslips, and lay tossed
and entangled on the sides of the ra­
vine. The increase of temperature after
passing the watershed was sensibly great,
amounting to from seven to ten degrees,
and the vegetation far more luxuriant,
the plants presenting many new forms
unknown at the eastern side. After
leaving the plain and crossing the shal­
low stream, we left our mantles, and
girthed up near a tree in a thicket fes­
tooned with a beautiful creeper, having
a bell-shaped flower of violet radiated
with brown. The variety of flowers
made an Eden of this lovely spot:
climbing clusters of sweet-peas, vetches,
rich golden flowers resembling gorgeous
marigolds, and many another blossom,
filled the air with perfume and delighted
the eye with their beauty. Proceeding
still westward, we entered a valley with
alternate clumps of trees and green pas­
tures, and after riding about a mile I
espied from a ridge on one side of the
valley two bulls on the other side, just
clear of the thick woods bordering the
ascent of the mountains. The word
was passed in whispers to the cacique,
and, a halt being called under cover of
some bushes, a plan of attack was ar­
ranged in the following manner : Two
men were sent round to endeavor to
drive the animals to a clearing where it
would be possible to use the lasso, the
remainder of the party proceeding down
toward the open ground with lassos,
ready to chase if the bulls should come
that way. For a few minutes we re­
mained stationary, picking the straw­
berries, which in this spot were ripe,
although the plants previously met with
were only in flower. At the end of five
minutes spent in anxiously hoping that
our plan would prove successful, a yell
from the other side put us on the alert,
and we had the gratification to see one
of the animals coming straight toward
our cover. Alas! just as we were pre­
paring to dash out he turned on the edge
of the plain, and after charging furious­
ly at his pursuer, dashed into a thicket,

�AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

397

where he stood at bay. We immediately ever, to our surprise, issued safe from
closed round him, and, dismounting, I the bush, where he had lain quiet and
advanced on foot to try and bring him unhurt, though the horse was killed.
down with the revolver: just as I had
got within half a dozen paces of him,
The first question asked about the
and behind a bush was quietly taking Patagonians by curious English friends
aim at his shoulder, the Indians, eager has invariably had reference to their
for beef, and safe on their horses at traditionary stature : Are they giants or
a considerable distance off, shouted, not? Whether the ancestors of the Te“Nearer! nearer!” I accordingly step­ huelches—to whom alone, by the way,
ped from my cover, but had hardly the name Patagonians properly applies
moved a pace forward when my spur —were taller than the present race is
caught in a root: at the same moment uncertain, though tales of gigantic skele­
“El Toro” charged. Entangled with tons found in Tehuelche graves are cur­
the root, I could not jump on one side rent in Punta Arenas and Santa Cruz.
as he came on ; so when within a yard The average height of the Tehuelche
I fired a shot in his face, hoping to turn male members of the party with which
him, and wheeled my body at the same I traveled was rather over than under
instant to prevent his horns from catch­ five feet ten inches. Of course no other
ing me, as the sailors say, “broadside means of measurement besides compar­
on.” The shot did not stop him, so I ing my own height were available, but
was knocked down, and, galloping over this result, noted at the time, coincides
me, he passed on with my handkerchief, with that independently arrived at by Mr.
which fell from my head, triumphantly Cunningham. Two others, who were
borne on his horns, and stopped a few measured carefully by Mr. Clarke, stood
yards off under another bush. Having six feet four inches each. After joining
picked myself up and found my arms the northern Tehuelches, although the
and legs all right, I gave him another Southerners proved generally the tallest,
shot, which, as my hand was rather I found no reason to alter this average,
unsteady, only took effect in the flank. as any smaller men that were met with
My cartridges being exhausted, I return­ in their company were not pure Te­
ed to my horse and found that, besides huelches, but half-bred Pampas. The
being considerably shaken, two of my extraordinary muscular development of
ribs had been broken by the encounter. the arms and chest is in all particularly
The Indians closed round me, and striking, and as a rule they are wellevinced great anxiety to know whether proportioned throughout. This fact calls
I was much hurt. One, more courageous for especial mention, as others have
than the rest, despite the warnings of the stated that the development and strength
cacique, swore that he would try and of the legs is inferior to that of the arms.
lasso the brute, and accordingly ap­ Even Mr. Cunningham alleges this to
proached the infuriated animal, who for be the case, but I cannot at all agree
a moment or two showed no signs of with him. Besides the frequent oppor­
stirring: just, however, as the Indian tunities afforded me of scrutinizing the
was about to throw his lasso it caught young men engaged in the game of ball,
in a branch, and before he could extri­ in which great strength and activity are
cate it the bull was on him. We saw displayed, or when enjoying the almost
the horse give two or three vicious kicks daily bath and swimming or diving, I
as the bull gored him : at length he was judged of the muscular size of their legs
lifted clean up, the fore legs alone re­ by trying on their boots, which in nearly
maining on the ground, and overthrown, all cases were far too large for me, al­
the rider alighting on his head in a bush. though the feet, on the other hand, were
We closed up and attracted the bull in frequently smaller than mine. The
another direction, then went to look for height of their insteps is also worthy of
the corpse of our comrade, who, how­ remark, one example of which may suf-

�398

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

[Apr,

fice. Having negotiated an exchange I ufactared by Messrs, Thomas, for some
of an excellent pair of high boots, man- j necessary article with a TehuSche, the

bargain fell through because he was un- I high-arched instep proving an insuper»
able to get his foot into the boot, the I able obstacle to farther progress.

�1872.]

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

Their faces, of course, vary in expres­
sion, but are ordinarily bright and good-

humored, though when in the settle­
ments they assume a sober, and even
sullen, demeanor. Wáki and Cayuke,
two friends of mine, are particularly
present to my recollection as having
always had a smile on their faces.
Their ever-ready laughter displays uni­
versally good teeth, which they keep
white and clean by chewing “maki,” a
gum which exudes from the incense
bush, and is carefully gathered by the
women and children. It has a rather
pleasant taste and is a most excellent
dentifrice, worthy to rival Odonto or
Floriline, and it is used simply as such,
and not, as M. Guinnard says, because
their greediness is so great that they
must chew something. Their eyes are
bright and intelligent, and their noses—
though, of course, presenting different
types—are as a rule aquiline and wellformed, and devoid of the breadth of
nostril proper to the ordinary ideal of
savage tribes. The peculiar prominence
over the eyebrows has been noticed by
all observers, and retreating foreheads,
though observable, are exceptional. The
thick masses of hair and the obvious
risk, which would deter the most zealous
craniologist from endeavoring to meas­
ure their heads, must be deemed suf­
ficient excuse for my not being able to
state whether they are dolichokephalic
or brachykephalic — a point, however,
which I confess did not particularly at­
tract my observation; but for the partial
comfort of anthropologists, be it noted
that both Chilians and myself inter­
changed hats with some Tehuelches,
especially Orkeke and Hinchel, without
finding misfits. The complexion of the
men is reddish-brown—that is to say,
when cleansed from paint, and, like an
old picture, restored to its pristine tint,
which is not quite so deep as to warrant
Fitzroy’s comparison of it to the color of
a Devon cow.
The scanty natural growth of beard,
moustaches, and even eyebrows, is care­
fully eradicated by means of a pair of
silver tweezers, and I was often urged
to part with my beard and undergo this

399

painful operation, but I naturally object­
ed to complying with the request. The
men’s heads are covered with thick,
flowing masses of long hair, of which
they take great care, making their wives
or other female relatives brush it out
carefully at least once a day. Very few
appeared to have gray hair, though there
were a few exceptions, one very old
man’s hair being of a snowy whiteness,
which contrasted strangely with his
tawny face. The women have, as far
as I could judge, an average height of
about five feet six : they are very strong
in the arms, but seldom walk, beyond
fetching the supplies of wood and water,
all their journeys being performed on
horseback. Their hair, which is of no
great length, scarcely indeed equaling
that of the men, and very coarse, is
worn in two plaited tails, which on galadays are artificially lengthened, prob­
ably with horsehair interwoven with
blue beads, the ends being garnished
with silver pendants. This practice,
however, is confined, I think, to the un­
married ladies.
The young women are frequently
good-looking, displaying healthy, ruddy
cheeks when not disguised with paint.
They are modest in behavior, though
very coquettish, and as skilled in flirta­
tion as if they had been taught in more
civilized society, appealing as prettily
for help as a young lady in imaginary
difficulties over a country stile. Thus,
when at Orkeke’s request I led the way
through a river — halfway across the
channel suddenly deepened, with mud­
dy bottom, and an abrupt bank to land
on—I heard a plaintive appeal, “Mus­
ter, help me! my horse is too small.”
Exposure and work do not age them as
soon as might be expected, but when
old they become most hideous beldams,
and the most weird-like witches imagined
by Dore would be surpassed by a trio
of Tehuelche grandams. The dress of
the men consists of a chiripa or under­
garment round the loins, made of a
poncho, a piece of cloth, or even of a
guanaco mantle; but, whatever the ma­
terial, this article of dress is indispens­
able and scrupulously worn, their sense

�400

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS;

[Apr.

of decency being very strong. All other I and warm skin-mantle, which, worn
garments are supplied by the capacious | with the fur inside and the painted side

out, will keep the wearer dry for a con- I This is often dispensed with in the ch &gt;se,
siderable time in the wettest weather. I but if worn when riding is secured at the

�AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

1872.]

waist by a belt of hide or leather if it
can be obtained. When in camp the
belt is not used, and the garment is worn
loose, something after the fashion of the
melodramatic assassin’s cloak. When
sitting by the fireside, or even when
walking about, the furred part of the
mantle is generally kept up over the
mouth, as the Tehuelches aver that the
cold wind causes sore gums—-a habit
which assists in rendering their guttural,
and at all times rather unintelligible,
language more difficult of comprehen­
sion to' the novice.
The women’s dress consists of a man­
tle similar to that worn by the men, but
secured at the throat by a large silver
pin with a broad disk, or a nail, or thorn,
according to the wealth or poverty of
the wearer; and under this is a loose
calico or stuff sacque, extending from
the shoulders to the ankle. When trav­
eling the mantle is secured at the waist
by a broad belt ornamented with blue
beads and silver or brass studs. The
boots worn by the women are similar to
those described, with the exception that
in their preparation the hair is left on
the hide, while it is carefully removed
from those of the men. The children
are dressed in small mantles, but are
more frequently allowed to run about
naked up to the age of six or eight: their
little boots are made from the skin taken
from the fore legs of the guanaco, soft­
ened in the hand. The small children
generally remonstrated strongly and ef­
fectually against wearing this article of
clothing, and, whatever the severity of
the weather, preferred running about
barefoot. The cradles for the babies are
formed of strips of wickerwork interlaced
with hide thongs, fitted with a cover to
keep sun and rain off, and made of a
convenient shape to rest on the saddle­
gear of the mother when on the march.
They are ornamented, if the parents are
wealthy, with little bells, brass or even
silver plates. The women are fond of
ornaments, wearing huge earrings of
Square shape, suspended to small rings
passing through the lobe of the ear;
also silver or blue-bead necklaces. The
men also wear these necklaces, and
Vol.

IX.—27

401

adorn their belts, pipes, knives, sheaths
and horse-gear with silver. Those who
can afford it also indulge in silver spurs
and stirrups : most of their ornaments,
except the beads, are homemade, being
beaten out of dollars obtained by com­
merce in the settlements. Both sexes
smear their faces, and occasionally their
bodies, with paint, the Indians alleging
as the reason for using this cosmetic that
it is a protection against the effect of the
winds ; and I found from personal ex­
perience that it proved a complete pre­
servative from excoriation or chapped
skin. The paint for the face is composed
of either red ochre or black earth mixed
with grease obtained from the marrow­
bones of the game killed in the chase,
all of which are carefully husbanded by
the women, and when opportunity offers
pounded and boiled in the large pots,
the grease and gelatine being carefully
skimmed off and secured. On state oc­
casions, such as a birth-feast, and for a
dance, the men further adorn themselves
with white paint or powdered gypsum,
which they moisten and rub on their
hands, and make five white finger-marks
over their chests, arms and legs. The
usual morning toilette is simple : after
the plunge in the river, which is almost
always the first thing—except of course
when circumstances prevent it—-indulged
in by both sexes, who bathe scrupulous­
ly apart, and generally before daylight,
the men’s hair is dressed by their wives,
daughters or sweethearts, who take the
greatest care to burn any hairs that may
be brushed out, as they fully believe that
spells may be wrought by evil-intentioned persons who can obtain a piece of
their hair. From the same idea, after
cutting their nails the parings are care­
fully committed to the flames. After
the hair-brushing, which is performed by
means of a rude hand-brush, the women
adorn the men’s faces with paint: if in
mourning they put on black paint, and
if going to fight, sometimes put a little
white paint under the eyes, which assists
in contrast to the other in giving a sav­
age expression. The women paint each
other’s faces, or if possessed, as some­
times occurs, of a fragment of looking­

�402

AT HOME WITH THE PATAGONIANS.

[Apr.

glass, paint their own. Both sexes tattoo etc., are intended to propitiate the Guaon the forearm, by the simple process of lichu. When a child hurts itself, the
puncturing the skin with a bodkin and slaughter of mares seems to partake at
inserting a mixture of blue earth with a once of the nature of a thank-offering
piece of dry glass: the usual patterns that the hurt was no worse, and a pro­
consist of a series of parallel lines, and pitiation to avert further harm.
sometimes a single triangle or a double
Whilst in their native wilds I observed
triangle, the upper one resting on the little immorality amongst the Indians:
apex of the lower. I myself had one in the settlements, however, when de­
line tattooed by a fair enslaver, and con­ based by intoxication, they are no doubt
fess that the process was rather painful.
depraved and loose in their ideas. But
The religion of the Tehuelches is dis­ it must be recorded that on the entry of
tinguished from that of the Pampas and the Indians into the settlements of the
Araucanians by the absence of any trace Rio Negro at a subsequent period, most
of sun-worship, although the new moon of the young women and girls were left
is saluted, the respectful gesture being ac­ with the toldos in Valchita, outside the
companied by some low muttered words Travesia, to be out of the way of temp­
which I never could manage to hear. tations. There are many Tehuelche
They believe in a great and good Spirit, youths now growing up who have the
though they think he lives " careless of greatest abhorrence of liquor; and I
mankind.” They have no idols or ob­ hope that in time this abstinence will
jects of worship, nor—if a year’s expe­ spread farther among them, for they
rience can enable one to judge—do they possess no intoxicants of their own, and
observe any periodical religious festival the rum is an import from the Christians,
on which either the good or evil spirit is the ill effects of which they are well able
adored. The mention of this by other to discern.
travelers can only be explained by con­
One word of advice to the future trav­
fused accounts which have attributed eler may conclude this imperfect sketch.
Araucanian customs to the totally dis­ Never show distrust of the Indians : be
tinct Patagonians. The belief which as free with your goods and chattels as
prompts all their religious acts is that in they are to each other. Don’t ever
the existence of many active and ma­ want anything done for you — always
licious evil spirits or demons, of whom catch and saddle your own horse. Don’t
the principal one is always on the watch give yourself airs of superiority, as they
to cause mischief. To propitiate or drive do not understand it, unless you can
away this spirit is the function of the prove yourself better in some distinct
wizard, or doctor, or medicine-man, who way. Always be first, as you are not
combines the medical and magical arts, likely to be encumbered by a wife or
though not possessed of an exclusive gear, in crossing rivers or any other dif­
faculty for either. All sacrifices of mares ficulties : they will learn by degrees to
and horses, not at stated times, but as respect you. In a word, as you treat
occasion requires, such as a birth, death, them so they will treat you.

�</text>
                  </elementText>
                </elementTextContainer>
              </element>
            </elementContainer>
          </elementSet>
        </elementSetContainer>
      </file>
    </fileContainer>
    <collection collectionId="6">
      <elementSetContainer>
        <elementSet elementSetId="1">
          <name>Dublin Core</name>
          <description>The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/.</description>
          <elementContainer>
            <element elementId="50">
              <name>Title</name>
              <description>A name given to the resource</description>
              <elementTextContainer>
                <elementText elementTextId="2374">
                  <text>Victorian Blogging</text>
                </elementText>
              </elementTextContainer>
            </element>
            <element elementId="41">
              <name>Description</name>
              <description>An account of the resource</description>
              <elementTextContainer>
                <elementText elementTextId="16307">
                  <text>A collection of digitised nineteenth-century pamphlets from Conway Hall Library &amp;amp; Archives. This includes the Conway Tracts, Moncure Conway's personal pamphlet library; the Morris Tracts, donated to the library by Miss Morris in 1904; the National Secular Society's pamphlet library and others. The Conway Tracts were bound with additional ephemera, such as lecture programmes and handwritten notes.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Please note that these digitised pamphlets have been edited to maximise the accuracy of the OCR, ensuring they are text searchable. If you would like to view un-edited, full-colour versions of any of our pamphlets, please email librarian@conwayhall.org.uk.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span&gt;&lt;img src="http://www.heritagefund.org.uk/sites/default/files/media/attachments/TNLHLF_Colour_Logo_English_RGB_0_0.jpg" width="238" height="91" alt="TNLHLF_Colour_Logo_English_RGB_0_0.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;</text>
                </elementText>
              </elementTextContainer>
            </element>
            <element elementId="39">
              <name>Creator</name>
              <description>An entity primarily responsible for making the resource</description>
              <elementTextContainer>
                <elementText elementTextId="16308">
                  <text>Conway Hall Library &amp; Archives</text>
                </elementText>
              </elementTextContainer>
            </element>
            <element elementId="40">
              <name>Date</name>
              <description>A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource</description>
              <elementTextContainer>
                <elementText elementTextId="16309">
                  <text>2018</text>
                </elementText>
              </elementTextContainer>
            </element>
            <element elementId="45">
              <name>Publisher</name>
              <description>An entity responsible for making the resource available</description>
              <elementTextContainer>
                <elementText elementTextId="16310">
                  <text>Conway Hall Ethical Society</text>
                </elementText>
              </elementTextContainer>
            </element>
          </elementContainer>
        </elementSet>
      </elementSetContainer>
    </collection>
    <itemType itemTypeId="1">
      <name>Text</name>
      <description>A resource consisting primarily of words for reading. Examples include books, letters, dissertations, poems, newspapers, articles, archives of mailing lists. Note that facsimiles or images of texts are still of the genre Text.</description>
      <elementContainer>
        <element elementId="7">
          <name>Original Format</name>
          <description>The type of object, such as painting, sculpture, paper, photo, and additional data</description>
          <elementTextContainer>
            <elementText elementTextId="13147">
              <text>Pamphlet</text>
            </elementText>
          </elementTextContainer>
        </element>
      </elementContainer>
    </itemType>
    <elementSetContainer>
      <elementSet elementSetId="1">
        <name>Dublin Core</name>
        <description>The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/.</description>
        <elementContainer>
          <element elementId="50">
            <name>Title</name>
            <description>A name given to the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13145">
                <text>At home with the Patagonians II</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="39">
            <name>Creator</name>
            <description>An entity primarily responsible for making the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13146">
                <text>Musters, George Chaworth</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="41">
            <name>Description</name>
            <description>An account of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13148">
                <text>Place of publication: [Philadelphia]&#13;
Collation: 390-402 p. : ill. ; 24 cm.&#13;
Notes: From the library of Dr Moncure Conway. From Lippincott's Monthly Magazine, 9 (April 1872). Attribution: Virginia Clark's catalogue. Printed in double columns.&#13;
&#13;
Please note that this pamphlet contains language and ideas that may be upsetting to readers. These reflect the time in which the pamphlet was written and the ideologies of the author.</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="45">
            <name>Publisher</name>
            <description>An entity responsible for making the resource available</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13149">
                <text>[J. B. Lippincott &amp; Co.]</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="40">
            <name>Date</name>
            <description>A point or period of time associated with an event in the lifecycle of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13150">
                <text>[1872]</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="43">
            <name>Identifier</name>
            <description>An unambiguous reference to the resource within a given context</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="13151">
                <text>G5307</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="49">
            <name>Subject</name>
            <description>The topic of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="16544">
                <text>Ethnology</text>
              </elementText>
              <elementText elementTextId="16545">
                <text>Patagonia</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="47">
            <name>Rights</name>
            <description>Information about rights held in and over the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="23687">
                <text>&lt;a href="http://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/mark/1.0/"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i.creativecommons.org/p/mark/1.0/88x31.png" alt="Public Domain Mark" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span&gt;This work (At home with the Patagonians II), identified by &lt;/span&gt;&lt;a href="https://conwayhallcollections.omeka.net/items/show/www.conwayhall.org.uk"&gt;&lt;span&gt;Humanist Library and Archives&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span&gt;, is free of known copyright restrictions.&lt;/span&gt;</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="42">
            <name>Format</name>
            <description>The file format, physical medium, or dimensions of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="23688">
                <text>application/pdf</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="51">
            <name>Type</name>
            <description>The nature or genre of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="23689">
                <text>Text</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
          <element elementId="44">
            <name>Language</name>
            <description>A language of the resource</description>
            <elementTextContainer>
              <elementText elementTextId="23690">
                <text>English</text>
              </elementText>
            </elementTextContainer>
          </element>
        </elementContainer>
      </elementSet>
    </elementSetContainer>
    <tagContainer>
      <tag tagId="1614">
        <name>Conway Tracts</name>
      </tag>
      <tag tagId="815">
        <name>Ethnology</name>
      </tag>
      <tag tagId="795">
        <name>Press</name>
      </tag>
      <tag tagId="1260">
        <name>Tehuelche People</name>
      </tag>
    </tagContainer>
  </item>
</itemContainer>
